By train from Beijing to Chengde

Day 2

Up early, left hotel at 6.20 to catch train 7711 to Chengde. Taxi cost 30Y. Nervous about finding platform, all signs in Chinese only, but OK in the end, and stronger after OJ and mcmuffin at you know where (lost nerve for Chinese breakfast!). Train left on time, everyone had picnics, sandwiches, kebabs, fruit, nuts. I had dry biscuits. Went sparingly on water as toilets not good. Scenery changed from high-rise buildings to fields of corn. Some harvested, cobs lying on rooftops, stacked in gardens. Stubble laid neatly and part burnt, ?sticks used for winter fuel. Became more hilly and clearer. Neat houses with small cultivated gardens.

Great people-watching on the train, smiling older people, eventually got talking (well, sort of!) and shook hands as we queued to get off the train. Bedlam outside station, touts with rooms, taxis etc. Taxi driver ripped me off, I know, but did deliver me to the right hotel - the Puning Li Hotel at the Temple of Heavenly Peace. Hungry, spicy fried pork with chilli and garlic, and lashings of tea. Walked up the hill behind hotel to find the Puning Temple; open views across Chengde to unlikely massive vertical rock perched on top of a hill.

Found way around temple perimeter wall, had to be stopped, kindly, by a soldier from entering a military base, then to the temple. In need of restoration, though UNESCO world heritage site. Steep steps, massive 22m Buddha with 42(??) arms inside main building, biggest wooden Buddha in the world; dusty though.

Several more Buddhas in side temples, also a whole roomful of 30 more than life sized golden guys (wooden) in yellow sequinned robes.

Autumn colours just starting.

In-line roller skaters training seriously on large track area set up outside, style of speed skaters on ice. Impressive.

Into town by taxi for dinner at night Market. Wandered round, life on the line as crossed road a few times, also running past building front being demolished behind a fairly flimsy set of sheets with bricks, glass and dust spraying out from underneath.

Octopus and spicy pork kebab as peckish.

Many stalls in night market with hot pots, kebabs (inc ducks heads), stews etc. Fancied fried dumplings, 10 for 30Y, with 'cocola'. Pot of some liquid for dipping, plus cloves of raw garlic and chili paste.

And then taxi back for 20Y. Tea in room, and hot bath (bright orange water).

Good to have a text from Tim, otherwise feel as if I'm the only westerner around, certainly no others seen on train or in Chengde!

Mountain resort in the morning, then another 4.5 hours train ride back to Beijing.

Night.