Liulichang, the Beijing Metro, and (you've guessed it) great food!

Day 12

Woke late, relaxed.

Not hungry, so a simple roadside stone pot yoghurt for breakfast, and then followed my nose without a real plan via the metro to Liulichang. The nearly full train stopped at the first station, and we were all asked to get off, all waiting for the next to arrive. When one nearly full trainload tries to board a nearly full train you get, well, chaos, and a very unpleasant juxtaposition of bodies. Still, got my arse into gear, and discovered it was a quicker arse than any surrounding Chinese ones when it came to reversing into a newly vacant seat - I had no idea just how far I could stick it out!

A gentle meander down the western part of Liulichang (not previously explored), and then enjoyed browsing through couple of great art bookshops. Paint brushes by the hundred ranging from mouse- to full horse-tail size.

Found a superb place to have lunch, 50m south of the Liulichang road bridge, east side. Not a Westerner in sight, and I was pretty pleased with what I ordered, though it would have fed four. Chicken kung po, shredded cabbage and bean curd, bitter gourd (yes, by choice, Tim!), and the best (very hot) prawn hotpot. So had crispy, soft, firm and crunchy textures, with bitter, hot, ma, and sour flavours. Missed out on sweet, but made up for it later with cake and coffee at Starbucks, where I sat at the top of the main drag leading to Tiananmen Square as the sun went down; it got dark very quickly. 

A little more gift shopping, then enjoyed the food stalls just off the main street, though not remotely hungry!!

Back, then to the hotel via metro, full circle of line 2 today, to write postcards with a beer in the very Chinese bar with underfloor fish tanks at the Bamboo Garden.

Last day tomorrow, just as I'm feeling really comfortable in this amazing city.

Now right out of socks, pity; my room smells of feet...

Oh, did I mention the spitting? Noisy oik/spit, anywhere and everywhere - in the street, in taxis, in restaurants. Comedy now, no point finding it offensive.