Up early, packed and collected at 7.45 for the drive to the airport, and to meet one of the most extraordinary days of my life.
East China Airlines flight to Taiyuan, window seat, giving a view of Beijing, then the Fragrant Mountains, and then towards Taiyuan, a plain with flattened tops and cleft valleys, with extensive terracing, vines in bases of clefts. Dry and almost indescribable, though I've just tried to do so!
Then Taiyuan, thoroughly modern airport, but with a pall of coal dust over the city and a smell to match. It didn't last, and we drove out through rural cultivated areas, with the atmosphere clearing as we left the city behind. Sweet corn everywhere, part harvested. Piles of coal in courtyards. Sweetcorn laid out to dry on the road itself! Random traffic everywhere on the four or six lane highway. Slept a bit....
And then we arrived in Pingyao, in Shanxi province, the cradle of Chinese civilisation. Photos will never do this place justice. Like going back 150 years. Walled city. Narrow streets lined with beautiful old shop fronts, lanterns by the thousand. Traders selling all sorts; bikes, carts, mopeds, people everywhere. Nothing like the rest of the world, nothing like I've experienced before. Into our hotel, the Tian Yuan Kui Guesthouse, the first to be set up in Pingyao. Right in the heart of the centre, wooden courtyard hotel, old stone pillar bases, outdoor corridors, etched glass windows with wooden latticing, and a room for me with a wall-to-wall kang bed as big as my dining room, or bigger. A glorious complex lantern over my bed. A thoroughly modern and clean bathroom, with a proper loo.
We had lunch in the hotel, crusty stuffed dumplings, sliced up omelette with tomato, totally delicious, and oh God can hardly remember what else, oh yes, a potato and beef dish, thankfully took a photo!
Then it was time for more walking. The walls just had to be walked! 10km of perfectly preserved walls around the city, compacted earth (Ming), lined externally with brick (Qing), views over crenelated brickwork, old factories, the local jail, people's gardens, drying corn, shops, lanterns, dogs, the whole life of the place. All in hot clear sunshine, mountains to North and south, Tim declaring that in numerous visits it had never before been clear enough to see them at all.
A totally fascinating three hours, made more interesting by a plague of ladybirds, and hot sunshine, not to mention a whole lot of talking.
Then a wander back through the side streets, precious glimpses of life down the alleys, and into people's homes.
Back to the hotel, not to rest, because ten minutes later we were on our way to the 'International Financiers' Club', a beautiful place lit with long high lanterns and some floor lights, for a few beers. No other financiers there but Tim, but we put the world to rights for a couple of hours. Actually I learned a vast amount about all sorts of things. Tim's business project re carbon credit exchange (with initial financing of £120m thanks to Bill Gates); he has many good political contacts, is passionate about all things Chinese, has a global view of economics and history, a huge knowledge of science, and loves to talk about these things. Puts the boring lives and short term objectives of most of us into perspective.
But then, back to basics, notable squatter provided with inscribed marble tome to read, took a photo as failed to understand the message!
Random supper place, with mahjong and small child. A wet soupy bean curd dish, with Chinese spinach, and a very good beef dish... And a bit more beer. Plus tea, as by now freezing cold.
Back to the room of rooms, and the bed of beds, finally warm, and writing my diary.
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